Jalie 2795 Hack
So, Santa brought me a French curve!!! I was stoked and immediately set out in search of a pattern that needed French curving. Then, the other morning I was searching the interwebs and saw this Prana half-zip:
I loved the curved seam at the top of the bodice and the contrasting panels, and I thought to myself: “I bet I could try to make this with my trusty French curve.” So I set out to do just that.
I decided to use Jalie 2795 as my base. I traced the all the pattern pieces and taped the front pieces together together. I then drew the curved band that would turn the full-zip into a half-zip. I cut the new pieces out and started assembling.
I cut the majority of the top out of 200 weight Polartec. I thought I would try to make the contrast out of wool sweater-knit from an upcycled Goodwill find. Here was the original sweater:
I deconstructed it and then cut my pattern pieces. Here’s a picture of the assembled front. The fleece looks a little yellow in this picture, but it’s actually more of a peridot color.
Once I got the whole top assembled, it looked like this:
I was honestly a bit disappointed in how it came out. For me, there were three big problems: (1) The curved band was right at the bust line and not at all attractive; (2) The snowflakes on the sweater knit were way too busy; and (3) The band did not continue to the back.
See, the band just stopped and looked weird. So, I decided to attempt a Jalie 2795- Hack version 2.0. This time, I dropped the band about two inches and continued the band on the back of the garment. I stayed with the peridot fleece, but changed the contrast. I used a royal blue fleece covered with this light-weight sweater-knit that I bought from Fabrics.com.
Once I had the pieces cut and the sweater-knit fused to the blue fleece, I started assembling. I began with the back.
I then assembled the sleeves, but left the bottom seam open so they could be inserted flat. I sewed the sleeves to the back and then attached the two upper bodice pieces. I attached the collar and then inserted the zipper. The zipper was a beast–I lost track of how many times I ripped it out. I then attached the welts and connected the upper bodice to bottom bodice. I sewed up the side seams and then made the cuffs and waistband. Here’s the result:
The fit is better on verison 2.0, but the band in the middle of the bodice did not come out as curved as I had envisioned. In fact, the band bothers me. It looks so wonky in these pictures.
My favorite thing about this Jalie hack is the pouch pocket that has welts. On version 3.0, I’m keeping the pouch pocket, but increasing the curve on the band. I also think I need to raise the band. Maybe it needs to go up an inch–where’s Tim Gunn when you need him???