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Jalie 2795 Hack

December 30, 2016

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So, Santa brought me a French curve!!! I was stoked and immediately set out in search of a pattern that needed French curving. Then, the other morning I was searching the interwebs and saw this Prana half-zip:

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I loved the curved seam at the top of the bodice and the contrasting panels, and I thought to myself: “I bet I could try to make this with my trusty French curve.” So I set out to do just that.

I decided to use Jalie 2795 as my base. I traced the all the pattern pieces  and taped the front pieces together together. I then drew the curved band that would turn the full-zip into a half-zip. I cut the new pieces out and started assembling.

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I cut the majority of the top out of 200 weight Polartec. I thought I would try to make the contrast out of wool sweater-knit from an upcycled Goodwill find. Here was the original sweater:imgp4698

I deconstructed it and then cut my pattern pieces. Here’s a picture of the assembled front. The fleece looks a little yellow in this picture, but it’s actually more of a peridot color.

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Once I got the whole top assembled, it looked like this:

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I was honestly a bit disappointed in how it came out. For me, there were three big problems: (1) The curved band was right at the bust line and not at all attractive; (2) The snowflakes on the sweater knit were way too busy; and (3) The band did not continue to the back.

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See, the band just stopped and looked weird. So, I decided to attempt a Jalie 2795- Hack version 2.0. This time, I dropped the band about two inches and continued the band on the back of the garment. I stayed with the peridot fleece, but changed the contrast. I used a royal blue fleece covered with this light-weight sweater-knit that I bought from Fabrics.com.

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Once I had the pieces cut and the sweater-knit fused to the blue fleece, I started assembling. I began with the back.

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I then assembled the sleeves, but left the bottom seam open so they could be inserted flat. I sewed the sleeves to the back and then attached the two upper bodice pieces. I attached the collar and then inserted the zipper. The zipper was a beast–I lost track of how many times I ripped it out. I then attached the welts and connected the upper bodice to bottom bodice. I sewed up the side seams and then made the cuffs and waistband. Here’s the result:

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The fit is better on verison 2.0, but the band in the middle of the bodice did not come out as curved as I had envisioned. In fact, the band bothers me. It looks so wonky in these pictures.

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My favorite thing about this Jalie hack is the pouch pocket that has welts. On version 3.0, I’m keeping the pouch pocket, but increasing the curve on the band. I also think I need to raise the band. Maybe it needs to go up an inch–where’s Tim Gunn when you need him???

 

 

From → Stuff I Made

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