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Jalie 2795 Hack version 3.0

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Y’all, I think I did it. I took me three tries, but I think I successfully turned Jalie 2795 into a half-zip. On my first try I added a center band that was too high. On my second try, the center band was too low. But on this third try I wizened up and ditched the center band!!

I started by drawing a new bodice front. I took the original pattern piece and used tracing paper to cut it on the fold. I then used my newly acquired French curve to draw a seam line that would separate the the half zip from the bottom.

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I used some brand new 300 weight Polartec fleece for the majority of the top. The great thing about this fleece was that it has a heather gray face and then a light gray reverse. I decided to use the light gray side, but then use the heather gray on the bottom sleeve panels. For the contrast, I used a sweater that my husband put in the pile for Goodwill. When I saw it was merino wool, I threw it in the washer, felted it up, and then added it to my stash of felted wool. Here’s the sweater before I cut it up.

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After I cut all my pieces out, I started by assembling the sleeves.

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Then I sewed the 3 back pieces together.

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After that, I attached the sleeves to the back at the shoulder seams.

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Then it was time to put the front together. I start by attaching the welts to the pouch pocket front.

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Next, I attached the zipper to the two upper bodice pieces. I left room at the top of these pieces to attach the collar and then finish attaching the zipper.

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Then I sewed the top front to the bottom piece, the pouch pocket.

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After I had these pieces together, I could attach the side panels.

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And then sew the front onto the sleeves.

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At this point I added the collar, finished attaching the zipper, and then added the collar lining.

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Finally I added the waistband and the sleeve cuffs.

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I really do love how it turned out. I think the felted wool is the perfect contrast.

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I do think I need thicker ribbing for the waistband and cuffs. I’m going to order some tonight and then swap them out.

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I used the heather gray on the inside of the collar.

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And I love the pouch pocket with the welts.

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Happy New Year everyone!! Let’s hope it’s a good one!!!

Jalie 2795 Hack

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So, Santa brought me a French curve!!! I was stoked and immediately set out in search of a pattern that needed French curving. Then, the other morning I was searching the interwebs and saw this Prana half-zip:

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I loved the curved seam at the top of the bodice and the contrasting panels, and I thought to myself: “I bet I could try to make this with my trusty French curve.” So I set out to do just that.

I decided to use Jalie 2795 as my base. I traced the all the pattern piecesĀ  and taped the front pieces together together. I then drew the curved band that would turn the full-zip into a half-zip. I cut the new pieces out and started assembling.

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I cut the majority of the top out of 200 weight Polartec. I thought I would try to make the contrast out of wool sweater-knit from an upcycled Goodwill find. Here was the original sweater:imgp4698

I deconstructed it and then cut my pattern pieces. Here’s a picture of the assembled front. The fleece looks a little yellow in this picture, but it’s actually more of a peridot color.

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Once I got the whole top assembled, it looked like this:

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I was honestly a bit disappointed in how it came out. For me, there were three big problems: (1) The curved band was right at the bust line and not at all attractive; (2) The snowflakes on the sweater knit were way too busy; and (3) The band did not continue to the back.

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See, the band just stopped and looked weird. So, I decided to attempt a Jalie 2795- Hack version 2.0. This time, I dropped the band about two inches and continued the band on the back of the garment. I stayed with the peridot fleece, but changed the contrast. I used a royal blue fleece covered with this light-weight sweater-knit that I bought from Fabrics.com.

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Once I had the pieces cut and the sweater-knit fused to the blue fleece, I started assembling. I began with the back.

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I then assembled the sleeves, but left the bottom seam open so they could be inserted flat. I sewed the sleeves to the back and then attached the two upper bodice pieces. I attached the collar and then inserted the zipper. The zipper was a beast–I lost track of how many times I ripped it out. I then attached the welts and connected the upper bodice to bottom bodice. I sewed up the side seams and then made the cuffs and waistband. Here’s the result:

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The fit is better on verison 2.0, but the band in the middle of the bodice did not come out as curved as I had envisioned. In fact, the band bothers me. It looks so wonky in these pictures.

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My favorite thing about this Jalie hack is the pouch pocket that has welts. On version 3.0, I’m keeping the pouch pocket, but increasing the curve on the band. I also think I need to raise the band. Maybe it needs to go up an inch–where’s Tim Gunn when you need him???

 

 

Green Pepper 520

Hi everyone! I’ve been kinda quiet in the blogosphere for the past month. This is because I spent December sewing Christmas presents, and on the off-chance that the gift recipients read my blog or that my creations went viral, I decided to keep my sewing on the down low.

Now that all gifts have been given, we can have the big reveal. First up is Green Pepper 520–the Mock Turtle Polar Sweater. Last year I bought 11 yards of this wool blend sweater fleece from Fabricline. Since its arrival, Mr. Boonetowne has been saying, “When are you going to make me something?” For Christmas I decided I would make him a mock turtleneck fleece out of this amazing fabric. This was my first Green Pepper pattern and I really liked it–good lines, good fit, & clear directions. I made size XL and omitted the pouch pocket and drawstring. I also decided to use a fleece binding on the sleeves instead of a traditional hem.

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I finished this top and liked it so much that I had to make one for me. This time I cut a size medium, and used the same modifications.

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I love the collar on this top. It’s just the right height.

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Here we are in our matching 520s. It’s a little worrisome–this is the danger of buying 11 yards of fabric.

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I made both of the above tops before Christmas. Then Christmas came and went and I found myself in need of a sewing intervention. Christmas is beautiful, magical, and totally wonderful, but my opinion, it’s also challenging, overwhelming, and emotionally exhausting. I woke up on December 26 and I knew that I needed some sewing therapy. Specifically, I needed to sew a quick, TNT pattern that required no tracing or intense direction reading. Enter Green Pepper 520 again.imgp4681

This time I used a gray plaid boiled wool knit that I bought from FashionFabricsClub.com. I love this fabric, but it was a doozy to cut. I could not get anything to line up, so I ended up cutting it on the bias. I used some plum fleece for the neck lining and sleeve bindings, and then I decided to add a plum panel on each side. To do this, I altered the back pattern piece. The back piece on this sweater extends all the way under the sleeve, resulting in a side seam that’s closer to the front than the side. I cut this section off of the back pattern piece and made it a side panel.

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I love this little pop of color on the sides of this top.

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Again, I love the collar on this pattern.

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Hopefully winter (and lots of snow) come to Boonetowne soon so I can get maximum wearage out of these tops!!!

Jalie 2795

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Y’all, out of all the things I’ve ever made, this might be my favorite! Last year, I bought a bolt (11 yards total) of this wool blend sweater fleece from fabricline.com (unfortunately they just posted that they are going out of business–this broke my heart because they were AMAZING to work with!) Since that purchase, I have been sewing all kinds of things out of this beautiful fabric. This weekend, I decided to bring out Jalie 2795 and actually try the hood.

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For the grey contrast panels on the sides and the sleeves, I used felted, charcoal wool. I got this wool from a men’s sweater that I bought at the Goodwill and then felted in my washing machine. The cuffs, waistband, and inner collar were made out of some scraps of Polartec PowderDry that I had in my stash.

I took some pictures at around 2PM today, but winter light has come to Boonetowne, so the color is not great. Additionally, we’ve got multiple wildfires burning in western North Carolina, so the smoke is making the sky a bit bleak. All of this is to say, my photos are not of the highest quality! šŸ˜¦

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I had to use a leather needle to manage the thickness of the sweater-knit and felted wool. I broke a few needles before figuring this out, but it was totally worth it.

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This jacket is so warm and cozy, I might never take it off!!

McCall’s 7122 Three-peat

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I made this pattern ONE MORE TIME! This time I used a scuba knit that I bought on sale through Girl Charlee. Once again I only had two yards, but I was determined to match the chevrons/zig-zags (which are they??) In order to make this work, I had to piece together the back. I cut it in 4 pieces, instead of 2.

Here’s the back:

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Here’s a close-up of the seams joining the 4 pieces:

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I’m pretty proud of the side seams:

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I will try to take a break from this pattern for a while, but no promises. I’ve got a stretch boiled wool that might make an awesome winter version of this pattern. In the meantime, here are a few more pix:

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A semi-disturbing photobomb by Mr. Boonetowne:

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The outfit that I’m wearing to work tomorrow–I really like this dress with a black cardigan:

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A second McCall’s 7122

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I wasn’t kidding when I said that I loved this pattern! I made a second version today, and I might very well make a third tomorrow. This time I used a thin jersey that I bought at the Mood store in LA.

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I do think this is the perfect pattern for knits with interesting patterns/designs. The clean lines and minimal seams on this dress show off the cool design on this fabric.

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I had two yards of this fabric, but I needed a little more to match the chevronish pattern. I did ok on the side seams, but the back is a little off.

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The wonky back seam and the cool Boonetowne weather called for a long sweater! It was the perfect excuse for a lengthened version of Jalie 3353 out of some cable-knit from Fabric.com.

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I love this time of year–layers, sweaters, and cool sleeping weather! Happy Fall everyone!!

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My new favorite pattern

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McCall’s 7122. I LOVE this pattern. It’s an A-line dress with raglan sleeves. It’s a fast, easy pattern that produces a dress with great lines. Get ready because I will be making this one over and over and over again.

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The fabric is a digitally printed neoprene from Mood. I bought this fabric about 9 months ago, but it was so beautiful I was scared to cut it. I finally worked my nerve and am so grateful to the fabric gods that this attempt worked out.

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I made length B with long sleeves. Although my measurements line up with the medium size, I checked out PatternReviw and decided to cut a small based on other reviews. I’m glad I did–the small fit perfectly. There’s a lot of ease in this pattern. Because of the ease and loose fit, I did not add the slit in the back–the dress didn’t need it.Ā  I also added cuffs just because. Actually, I felt like the cuffs matched the raglan sleeves.

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This was such a satisfying sew! I’m actually looking forward to work tomorrow sew I can wear my new dress!!

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